Kegerator Project

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I got a phone call from my uncle saying he’s getting rid of fridge, offering it to me if I wanted to use it for brewing. Uh, yes, please.  I hauled this bad boy home from PA one Sunday afternoon with the goal of turning it into a two-tap kegerator.

I must break you.

I must break you.

It’s a little tall (about shoulder-height), so putting the taps on top with the conventional tap tower is definitely out. Gonna have to drill through the front door and put the taps fairly high, so that they’re at a nice level for pouring.

Here’s what I needed (in order from left to right):  tap faucet, coupling nut, [optional] seal cover, 4″ shank, beer nut, barbed tail piece, washer and another large nut.  The shanks and all the nuts are 7/8″ diameter.

keg parts

Pieces 2 through 5 typically come together as a set. I did a little research on what parts you need and different quality grades of components.  Quality wise there’s stainless steel or chrome taps. From what I gather, chrome faucets (after many years of use) tend to flake off its chrome coating and wear out from the acidity of the beer, whereas stainless are, well, stainless and have no coating. Stainless parts are only $5 more, so hell, why not. I scoped out a few different websites that sell tap faucets, shanks, etc, and they’re basically all around the same price. Same goes for Ebay and craigslist since these parts are always in demand and fairly popular, I guess.  I went with Keg Connection for the faucet and shank parts – this site has some pretty good options, is reasonably priced, and I’ve bought my brewing kegs from there before so I know it’ll be legit. The rest of the nuts and tailpieces I got from Maryland Homebrew.

I used a 1″ hole saw drill bit to bore out the two holes for the shanks to go through.  After that, you’re pretty much done – that’s really the only labor associated with building this. Now just assemble the taps/shanks and screw everything together.  Definitely make sure that there are no coolant pipes or important stuff running through the door before you drill. Luckily this fridge was pretty basic and the door only about 2″ thick.  The actual hose lines to the keg will probably depend on your fridge setup.

 

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